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Product Install Support

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Product Installation Tips

Marlin M-LOK Polymer Forend Stock 

 

Thank you for purchasing Ranger Point Precision’s polymer M-LOK forend! We hope that most of you will be able to install it yourselves, rather than paying for a gunsmith to do so. Follow these instructions with care, and you can do it.

 

FOREND CAP MODELS with magazine stud mount (no front or rear bands)

  1. Remove the magazine stud screw attaching the front of the mag to the barrel
  2. Remove the forend cap screws on left and right of the cap
  3. Slide the cap forward off the tenon, then, with a finger in front of the mag cap (to prevent the spring from launching it) lift the mag tube and forend away from the barrel. Ease the mag cap out as the spring extends. Note: some forends are very tightly fitted against the tenon. It is ok to use the mag tube as a pry bar provided you grasp it just in front of the forend. Don’t forget to keep track of your magazine follower!
  4. Test fit the RPP forend and ensure that the forend tenon will properly center the new part on the barrel. If fitting is necessary, see further instructions below. 1895 and 444 models have a wider tenon, to which the RPP forend can be attached directly. All other models (with sporter weight barrels) have a narrower tenon, and the supplied washers must be used on either side to prevent squeezing and distorting the forend. Positioning the washers between the tenon and forend can be a bit tricky, but needle nose pliers should help.
  5. Once everything lines up nicely, stake the forend tenon (if not done at the factory) in place with a center punch, right at the metal joint, fore and aft of the tenon. Alternatively, loctite may be used in the dovetail joint. 
  6. Put a drop of blue thread lock on all screws and install parts in the reverse order of disassembly. You may use your factory forend cap screws or the provided hardware to attach the RPP forend.

 

BARREL BAND MODELS

  1. Remove (unscrew) the front sight ramp. It may be necessary to drift out the sight blade on some models to expose the second screw. 
  2. Remove the magazine cap screw while preventing the cap from launching under spring pressure.
  3. Remove the front and rear barrel band screws and slide both bands forward off the barrel. Tip: put a few drops of oil around both bands to ease disassembly and help prevent finish scratches.
  4. Pull forend and mag tube off rifle and test fit your new RPP forend. See fitting instructions below if necessary.
  5. Install the RPP barrel band adapter onto the barrel. Hole offset should be toward the receiver, with the screw head counterbore on the right. Put a drop of blue thread lock on the band screw threads, install the screw through the existing crosspin slot in the barrel, then gradually snug the screw while keeping the band indexed on the receiver (as viewed from muzzle).
  6. Check fit and barrel channel alignment of the forearm. Adjust band index if necessary, then tighten the screw with modest torque.
  7. Put blue thread lock on the supplied attachment screws, install them, and then slide the mag tube through the forearm and into the receiver port. 
  8. Reinstall mag follower and spring, then front barrel band and magazine cap.

 

Fitting instructions, if the forend won’t go into the receiver

  1. Due to variations in manufacturing tolerances, designing a part like a forend always involves some compromise. Marlin barrels, for instance, can vary in diameter (just in front of the receiver) by as much as 0.020”. A forend that will fit the larger diameter barrel well is going to be a loose fit on the smaller barrel. To avoid loose fitting parts, we designed ours to work best with the smaller diameters. Material is easily removed to achieve a snug fit on the larger barrels.
  2. Test fit while holding the new forend at an angle, with the front away from the barrel, and attempt to push the forend flange into the receiver recess. If it starts, but you can’t insert the forend all the way into the receiver while flattened against the barrel, this indicates that a very small amount of material must be removed. Check to ensure that thin upper legs of the U shaped flange have clearance between the barrel and receiver.
  3. If the forend won’t start into the receiver, or has an overly tight fit, begin removing material slowly from the bottom flat of the U.
  4. Mask the back of the forend, around the flange, with painters tape to avoid scuffing, then use either a coarse file with safe edge, or a square edged block with coarse (80-120gr) sandpaper on one flat. Do your best to work true against the flat, and test fit often. It should not be necessary to remove more than several thousands of an inch.
  5. If you suspect that you’ve removed several thousands, and the forend still doesn’t fit, take a little material off the bottom corner radii of the U, and also check to make sure the thin upper legs of the U are fitting between barrel and receiver. 
  6. Proceed until the forend flange can be pushed all the way into the receiver with hand pressure.

Marlin Lever Action "Medium" Loop Levers

 

Please Note: If you did not purchase a new plunger, spring and pin you’ll be able to re-use the parts from your factory lever.

1. Remove Factory Lever - Open your action and check—then double check—that the rifle is unloaded. Return the lever to about the halfway point, remove the lever pivot screw, and then slide your old lever down and out of the action.

2. Re-use parts from Factory Lever – Remove the plunger, cross pin and spring from your factory lever. Lay the lever on a supportive block right side up. Use a 1/16 inch punch (file a few 1000th of an inch off diameter) to drive the plunger cross pin out toward the left. Remove the plunger and spring and insert them into the new lever. Use an oversized punch to drive the cross pin back in from left to right taking note of the splined end of the cross pin.

New Marlin Factory Parts - Same instructions as above with one change before driving in pin. Insert spring and plunger and depress until flush with lever. If it’s painful to do so, remove the spring and clip off 1 coil.

Shims - Install one or more on either side of lever at pivot screw.

3. Install RPP Lever in the reverse manner, being sure to engage the control blade in its corresponding bolt slot. Operate the action, feeling for hitches or excessive friction. As a final check, close the action, lower the hammer all the way, and then pop the lever open just past the plunger. You should feel a small amount of free travel in the lever right after the plunger disengages from the receiver pin. If everything feels right, you are ready to shoot. If not, your lever may need some minor fitting.

Watch the Marlin Gold Standard Trigger and Reduced Hammer Spring Installation Video

Installation Instructions for RPP Marlin Gold Standard Trigger Kit
Important! Installing this trigger kit will substantially reduce the effort necessary to fire the weapon, and significantly increase the possibility of an accidental discharge if safe practices are not followed. Remember the important firearm safety rule: Never put your finger on the trigger until the gun is pointed at a target you intend to fire upon. You, the end user, are responsible for the safe use of your firearm, always. No firearm should be deemed safe for live fire until it has been tested unloaded.

- Check—then double check—that your rifle is unloaded, with chamber empty

- Remove butt stock screw from top rear tang, then gently bump and pull stock rearward off receiver.

- De-cock hammer to at rest position against bolt (safety off if applicable)

- Pull hammer spring bridge sideways from between upper and lower tangs, releasing hammer spring.

- Open lever partially, remove lever pivot screw, and pull lever downward out of receiver.

- Invert rifle on a workbench and remove forward action screw just behind forearm/receiver junction.

- Lay rifle on right side and remove trigger plate support screw at low center of receiver.

- Lay rifle on left side and remove hammer pivot screw at rear of receiver.

- Remove hammer, then grasp lower tang and pull trigger plate out of receiver bottom.
- Locate large diameter trigger pivot pin on trigger plate, and use a small punch to push it out, releasing the factory trigger and sear. Unless the parts are old and crusty, a hammer is not necessary.

- Take the opportunity to clean and lubricate the action and small parts. It isn’t necessary to remove any other screws. The locking lug will slide out of the bottom of the receiver. The bolt will slide out to the rear (careful not to lose the ejector inside the bolt channel). The carrier will swing downward. Go ahead and check that loading gate screw for tightness

- Time to install your new trigger! For this step strong lighting will be helpful. Taking care not to separate the RP trigger and sear, slide the assembly upward into the trigger plate, allowing the bottom of the trigger to rotate forward. Be sure the sear is behind the lever plunger catch pin. Using your thumb near the top of the trigger face, push the assembly up and back against the sear spring until you can see the pivot holes align. With your other hand, start the freshly oiled pivot pin in the opposite side of the trigger plate. Using both hands to keep the trigger assembly aligned, finish installing the pivot pin by pushing the entire trigger plate gently down onto your workbench, wiggling the trigger assembly as necessary for alignment. Excessive force should never be necessary. Take your time, and remember that the sear and trigger can move independently.

- Reassemble the action. Be sure to put that locking lug back in, then push the trigger plate back into the bottom of the receiver. If the fit is tight, use a screwdriver handle to tap it into position until the screw holes line up.

- Place a drop of blue Loctite (optional, but recommended) on the two trigger plate screws—but not the hammer pivot! Install the foremost (longer) screw first, finger tight, then the left side (shorter) support screw. Be sure of alignment, as it is easy to cross thread the support screw.

- Slide the hammer, strut first, through the opening in the top tang, and wrangle it into position at the pivot. To do this you will need to fully depress the trigger to get the sear out of the way, and to do that you need to disengage the trigger safety by pushing the tab upward with a thumb. Once the trigger is depressed, the hammer should slide easily into alignment at the pivot hole.

- Install the hammer pivot screw. Once the threads are started flip the rifle over and get a drop of blue Loctite into the receiver threads at the hammer pivot, then torque all three actions screws and wipe away excess thread lock.

- Install your choice of hammer spring on the hammer strut. The factory spring (shorter) will give a trigger pull weight of roughly 3.5lbs, whereas the included reduced power spring will typically give a pull weight of less than 3lbs, as well as reducing cycling effort. If you are not comfortable with a 2.5-3lb trigger pull, then don’t use the reduced power spring!

- With the hammer spring/strut angled outward, put the bridge in place and compress the spring until the lower leg of the bridge can be set into its groove in the lower tang. Continue compressing the spring until the upper leg of the bridge can be pushed under the upper tang, and center the bridge in the receiver.

- Reinstall remaining parts in reverse order of disassembly.

- Test your trigger! With the rifle empty, check pull weight and verify that it will be safe for you or any less experienced shooter who may use your rifle.

- Perform a bump test. With the rifle unloaded and hammer cocked, bump the butt pad of the rifle firmly on a padded floor to verify the hammer doesn’t drop. Just don’t get carried away and crack your stock.

- Before fielding the rifle, verify that the hammer will reliably ignite live primers/ammo in a safe shooting environment. This is especially important if using the reduced power hammer spring.

Watch the Marlin M/94 Extractor Claws Installation Video

 

Steyr A1 Pistols Brass Weights Installation


 

Steyr A1 Pistols Steel Guide Rods Installation

  1. Remove the factory guide rod from your Steyr slide

  2. Clamp the rear end of the rod in a bench vise (vise grips may suffice)

  3. a) If you don't intend to reuse the plastic rod, the easiest way to free the spring is to compress it (wrap the spring in a rag to save your fingers) and use a razor or dremel to cut away the keeper tabs at the front of the rod. Then slowly decompress the spring and remove it from the rod.

  4. Or b) If you wish to salvage the plastic rod for later use, slightly compress the spring and use needle nose pliers to start the open end of the spring over one of the keeper tabs. This is a little tricky, but once started, the spring can be "unscrewed" over the tabs easily.

  5. Place a drop of non-permanent thread locking agent (like blue Loctite) on the threads of the RPP keeper screw.

  6. Slide the factory spring over the RPP guide rod and compress it past the nose.

  7. Install the keeper screw, torque it lightly in place, and allow the Loctite a few hours of setting time.

  8. Install the RPP steel guide rod just as you would the factory unit, and enjoy the benefits of reduced muzzle flip.

 

Steyr A1 Pistols Magazine Spring Installation

  1. Remove the slide off of the frame. To remove the spring, compress the silver puck to the right of the spring with a pick and then pull out the spring/puck.
  2. To install the new spring and puck, angle in the left side of the spring first and then the “puck side” until it pops back into place.

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Rifle Front Sight Installation

This technique can be used for any front rifle sight with a dovetail or with a ramped dovetail. Remove factory front sight using brass or nylon punch while barrel is securely locked in vice. Clean the dovetail of any gun oils or residues with an alcohol based solvent. Place the front sight in the dovetail by hand to determine how much fitting will need to be done. Make sure the front of the sight is facing the shooters eye. The front of the sight is determined by the “flat” face of the sight. The angled face is pointed away from the shooter.

To determine how much fitting will be needed. The leading edge of the front sight dovetail should be able to be inserted by hand about halfway into the dovetail. If the sight’s dovetail does not then using a fine file or 120 or 220 grit sandpaper, remove a thin layer of the dovetail on the bottom of the sight (front then back). Do NOT over file! Only remove a small amount at a time until the sight dovetail can be inserted half way in the dovetail.

Once front sight fitting is complete and placed in dovetail. Use a brass or nylon sight punch to insert the sight the remaining distance. The front sight should be center within the slide for optimum shooting accuracy. Use calipers to verify.

Ranger Point Rifle Dovetail Fillers Installation

  1. Test fit the dovetail blank in the barrel cut. In most cases, it will slide in easily, or with gentle tapping. Do not attempt to drift the blank in with a punch, as this will damage the thin side edges.

  2. If the blank does not fit, use a file or sandpaper to remove material from the fore/aft sharp edges (not bevels). If removing a few thousands of an inch doesn't get a fit, the bottom of the blank may need to be lapped on fine sandpaper to loosen the overall fit. Cold blue may be used for touching up bare metal.

  3. Once a slip fit is achieved, degrease the blank and the dovetail cut, then apply red Loctite (or similar) generously to help fill voids and prevent rust. Wipe away excess and let set. Apply gun oil after adhesive sets.

Ranger Point profiled dovetail blanks are specially machined to mount flush on Marlin Firearms round rifle barrels. These already “profiled” dovetail blanks install in minutes and save you the 1-2 hours of filing necessary to fit other “blanks.”

Marlin Flyweight Loading Gate Installation


The gun will need to be partially disassembled - just go slow, and remember that each screw needs to return to it's original home, so get a piece of cardboard box, draw an approximation of the receiver on it, and poke a hole in your drawing where each screw can rest until reassembly 

1) Clear the rifle & ensure the chamber and magazine are EMPTY.

2) Unscrew/remove the tang screw from the upper/rear receiver tang, and pull off the butt stock to the rear.

3) Partially open bolt/lever, remove lever pivot screw and slide lever out of the bottom of the receiver (no need to remove bolt) 

4) De-cock the hammer with the safety disengaged. Push forward on the hammer spring bridge and pull or push out one side of its groove. This will free the hammer spring. 

5) Remove hammer pivot screw, bottom trigger plate screw and side support screws to free the trigger plate from the receiver. 

6)  Remove the trigger plate / lower tang from the bottom of the receiver (some gentle prying may be needed).

7) Pull the locking lug out of the bottom of the receiver and swing the carrier out of the receiver (no need to remove the carrier pivot screw)

8) Unscrew the loading gate spring (1” behind he loading gate opening) and install the new gate and screw it in

 Reassemble in reverse order. 

Winchester Model 94 Assembly / Disassembly


Marlin Lever Action "Medium" Loop levers (a true drop-in part, usually take 5 minutes to install)

Please Note: These replacement levers do not come with a plunger, cross pin or spring. You’ll be able to re-use the parts from your factory lever as part of the installation process.

INSTALLATION

Remove Factory Lever - Open your action and check—then double check—that the rifle is unloaded. Return the lever to about the halfway point, remove the lever pivot screw, and then slide your old lever down and out of the action.

Re-use parts from Factory Lever – Remove the plunger, cross pin and spring from your factory lever. Lay the lever on a supportive block right side up. Use a 1/16 inch punch (file a few 1000th of an inch off diameter) to drive the plunger cross pinout toward the left. Remove the plunger and spring and insert them into the new lever. Use an oversized punch to drive the cross pin back in from left to right taking note of the splined end of the cross pin.

New Marlin Factory Parts - Same instructions as above with one change before driving in pin. Insert spring and plunger and depress until flush with lever. If it’s painful to do so, remove the spring and clip off 1 coil.

Shims - Install one or more on either side of lever at pivot screw.

Install RPP Lever in the reverse manner, being sure to engage the control blade in its corresponding bolt slot. Operate the action, feeling for hitches or excessive friction. As a final check, close the action, lower the hammer all the way, and then pop the lever open just past the plunger. You should feel a small amount of free travel in the lever right after the plunger disengages from the receiver pin. If everything feels right, you are ready to shoot. If not, your lever may need some minor fitting.

If you have any fitting problems, please email us at rangerpointprecision@gmail.com

Ranger Point Sights

A) HOW TO MEASURE SIGHT HEIGHTS

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Calculating Front Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure total rear sight height, B. Put the answer in the Rear Sight Height field.
Step 3: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Use this Calculator to find out the Front Sight diameter, D, will be figured for you.

Calculating Rear Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Step 3: Measure total front sight height, D. Put the answer in the Front Sight Height field.
Use this Calculator to find the Rear Sight diameter, B, which will be figured for you.

Front Sight Windage
The front sight can be moved left (if shooting too far left) or right for the opposite windage. A couple of drops of red loctite can hold the front sight in place once you have it set.

Rear Sight Elevation
Pull the rear sight up to where you need it to align with the front sight. Shooting to high (move the rear sight lower) and vice versa for shooting too low.
 
Some common front sight rifle heights (some are not, some use ramps or not, please double check yours to confirm)
- .235" Sight (Marlin 444, 1895)
- .300" Sight (Marlin 39A, 60, 70, 75, 880/881, 882/883, 995)
- .365" Sight (Marlin 308, 336, 338, 1894; Henry 30-30, 45/70, .410; Savage 99, Winchester 94)
- .410" Sight (Marlin 1895 Octagon, Winchester 94, Ruger 22)
- .535" Sight (Marlin 1894C/CL 218 bee, 32-30, 25-20, Henry Big Boy Steels, 30-30, 45/70, .410)