MADE IN THE USA
Replacing the factory plastic recoil spring guide rods in the Steyr A1 Pistols is a simple and effective means of reducing muzzle flip. The one ounce of added weight (L9 1.2oz, L40 1oz, M9/M40 .9oz) helps to counterbalance the rearward slap of the slide. Black nitride coating keeps it from scratch resistant and free from rust.
User serviceable. Simply remove your factory spring from its plastic guide rod, drop onto the Ranger Point guide rod, and install threaded keeper. No special tools necessary. Made from high-quality stress proof steel, for a lifetime of service. Coated with a bake-on moly finish, for the ultimate in dry lubricity and smooth function.
Note: The C and S models already come with a steel guide rod. Thus why we only sell guide rods for the L and M models.
Thanks to our customer for posting this video on YouTube!
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Before purchasing the guide rod, I contacted the company with a question. I was pleasantly surprised someone answered my email over the Christmas holidays. Two thumbs up!
If that is not enough, the rod comes with the necessary hex wrench, which many companies do not provide. Another kudos for that!
The rod is a very nice upgrade, cleanly machined, and is going to last forever, unlike the crumbling plastic Steyr uses in the otherwise incredible gun. As an additional benefit, it does provide extra weight in front of the handgun, which is a bit too light IMHO.
As it appears everyone is somewhat struggling with the installation, here are two tricks, which I learned when dealing with HK USP and Beretta Cougar:
1. Use a pocket knife or a small flat screwdriver to lift the end of the first coil of the spring a bit when at the flat side of the end cap of the plastic guide rod. If this seems cryptic, look at it, and you will understand what I am talking about - it is in shape a circle with two sides chopped off, you need the spring end aligned with one of the flats. Then start rotating the rod, as if you are unscrewing it from the spring and the lifted end of the spring will climb on top of the rounded part of the rod's end. Few small pieces will crumble from the top of the plastic, but you can get the spring out, without destroying the rod. Be prepared when you get the first two-three coils off, most of the spring will slip off the rod, but it will not fly away across the room.
2. Using the new, steel rod as uncaptured one, put it with the spring in the gun's slide. You need to wrestle the spring a little bit, but you do not need superhuman strength or dexterity. I have weak-ish arms, and I am developing arthritis, and it took me about 30 seconds to get it in. For best results, put the slide vertically on the table top, with the muzzle down on the flat surface, then with your dominant hand apply pressure down on the rod's backend, and use your weak one to wiggle its frontend into the remaining coils of the spring. Once you have captured it in the slide, put the slide on the gun, pull it back and lock it with the slide lock. Now you have the spring very securely captured inside, not interfering with what you are doing, and the front end of the rod exposed to you, so you can put the screw (apply some blue loctite if you want) and tighten it. Once you have it screwed to the end, remove the slide, then remove the rod (which now has the captured spring) and tighten a bit more, as previously the rod was rotating in the slide.
Lastly, as the rod is a bit costly, it makes sense to buy the pack of rod and weight, you need both, you will like both, and you will end up saving few bucks. :-)
Didn’t feel much of a difference from the stock guide rod other than the weight felt slightly better but knowing that it will hold up better over time and Heat is comforting. Well made product.
I put red loctite on the screw to hold the spring in. I haven't had any problems. The gun cycles just fine, I don't notice any added weight. These Styer pistols feel very well weight balanced; adding accessories doesn't seem to change that. Getting the spring onto the guide rod was a pain in the butt. I could see using a wrench to force the spring down, then screwing in the main screw to be the easy way to get the job done. Long story short, it works and it's quality made.
Bought 2, both worked well and appear to be of good quality. Looks to be a good and tough finish on the part. I had to order spring sets from Steyr and cut the plastic rods to get the springs off. There are no aftermarket options, and Glock springs Don't fit. I know have the original un touched recoil assembly, and a new steel assembly. Also adds little weight to the gun. I am very pleased.
Had to clean the threads out some small chips where left in the if threads and whatever locktite you put on there was dry and brittle. Overall I’m pleased
Easy upgrade. Well made. I highly recommend.
I have gottin two sofar one of my L9 and one for my M 357-A1.
Well worth the $$. And easy to put in . For upgrades this should be the frist 1 .
Wanted to replace the plastic guide rod in my L9-A1 and after searching the web. I came across the one from Ranger Point and order it. I watched the video another customer made and followed his instructions and so far after 1000+ rounds the gun is working perfectly and I feel better its got a metal rod instead of a plastic one. The fit and finish is top notch and ordering was a breeze.
I ordered mine for the L9-A1 guide rod and it gives additional weight in front of the trigger. Milling is nice. Guide rod is a captured system with a set screw .Looks very nice in the chassis, easy upgrade.