Product Support

Support & Installation Tips

Watch the Marlin M/94 Extractor Claws Installation Video

Steyr A1 Pistols Brass Weights


Steyr A1 Pistols Steel Guide Rods 

  1. Remove the factory guide rod from your Steyr slide

  2. Clamp the rear end of the rod in a bench vise (vise grips may suffice)

  3. a) If you don't intend to reuse the plastic rod, the easiest way to free the spring is to compress it (wrap the spring in a rag to save your fingers) and use a razor or dremel to cut away the keeper tabs at the front of the rod. Then slowly decompress the spring and remove it from the rod.

  4. Or b) If you wish to salvage the plastic rod for later use, slightly compress the spring and use needle nose pliers to start the open end of the spring over one of the keeper tabs. This is a little tricky, but once started, the spring can be "unscrewed" over the tabs easily.

  5. Place a drop of non-permanent thread locking agent (like blue Loctite) on the threads of the RPP keeper screw.

  6. Slide the factory spring over the RPP guide rod and compress it past the nose.

  7. Install the keeper screw, torque it lightly in place, and allow the Loctite a few hours of setting time.

  8. Install the RPP steel guide rod just as you would the factory unit, and enjoy the benefits of reduced muzzle flip.

Steyr A1 Pistols Magazine Spring

  1. Remove the slide off of the frame. To remove the spring, compress the silver puck to the right of the spring with a pick and then pull out the spring/puck.
  2. To install the new spring and puck, angle in the left side of the spring first and then the “puck side” until it pops back into place.

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Ranger Point Rifle Dovetail Fillers

  1. Test fit the dovetail blank in the barrel cut. In most cases, it will slide in easily, or with gentle tapping. Do not attempt to drift the blank in with a punch, as this will damage the thin side edges.

  2. If the blank does not fit, use a file or sandpaper to remove material from the fore/aft sharp edges (not bevels). If removing a few thousands of an inch doesn't get a fit, the bottom of the blank may need to be lapped on fine sandpaper to loosen the overall fit. Cold blue may be used for touching up bare metal.

  3. Once a slip fit is achieved, degrease the blank and the dovetail cut, then apply red Loctite (or similar) generously to help fill voids and prevent rust. Wipe away excess and let set. Apply gun oil after adhesive sets.

Ranger Point profiled dovetail blanks are specially machined to mount flush on Marlin Firearms round rifle barrels. These already “profiled” dovetail blanks install in minutes and save you the 1-2 hours of filing necessary to fit other “blanks.”

Marlin Lever Action "Medium" Loop levers (a true drop-in part, usually take 5 minutes to install)

Please Note: These replacement levers do not come with a plunger, cross pin or spring. You’ll be able to re-use the parts from your factory lever as part of the installation process.

INSTALLATION

  1. Remove Factory Lever - Open your action and check—then double check—that the rifle is unloaded. Return the lever to about the halfway point, remove the lever pivot screw, and then slide your old lever down and out of the action.

  2. Re-use parts from Factory Lever – Next, you’re going to remove the plunger, cross pin and spring from your factory lever. Lay the lever on a supportive block right side up. Use a 1/16 inch punch to drive the plunger cross pin out toward the left. Remove the plunger and spring and insert them into the new lever and drive the cross pin in from left to right taking note of the splined end of the cross pin.

  3. Install RPP Lever in the reverse manner, being sure to engage the control blade in its corresponding bolt slot. Operate the action, feeling for hitches or excessive friction. As a final check, close the action, lower the hammer all the way, and then pop the lever open just past the plunger. You should feel a small amount of free travel in the lever right after the plunger disengages from the receiver pin. If everything feels right, you are ready to shoot. If not, follow the below instructions carefully.

 FITTING           

  1. If you feel a distinct hitch as the lifter paw is engaging/disengaging the locking block, a small amount of material should be removed from Surface A. Paint the surface with a marker, test fit, and carefully and evenly work down the contact point with a fine file until the lever opens and closes smoothly.

  2. If there is scraping friction rather than free travel just outside of plunger disengagement, with the hammer down, then carefully radius and remove material from Point B. Check Surface A first! No more than a few thousands of an inch should need to be removed from either spot. Proceed with care, and then enjoy your new lever!

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Ranger Point Sights

A) HOW TO MEASURE SIGHT HEIGHTS

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Calculating Front Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure total rear sight height, B. Put the answer in the Rear Sight Height field.
Step 3: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Use this Calculator to find out the Front Sight diameter, D, will be figured for you.

Calculating Rear Sight Height
Step 1: Measure barrel outside diameter, A, and put the dimension in the Barrel Diameter at Rear Sight field.
Step 2: Measure barrel outside diameter, C, and put the answer in the Barrel Diameter at Front Sight field.
Step 3: Measure total front sight height, D. Put the answer in the Front Sight Height field.
Use this Calculator to find the Rear Sight diameter, B, which will be figured for you.

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Front Sight Windage
The front sight can be moved left (if shooting too far left) or right for the opposite windage. A couple drops of red lactate can hold it in place once you have it set.

Rear Sight Elevation
Pull the rear sight up to where you need it to align with the front sight. Shooting to high (move the rear sight lower) and vice versa for shooting too low.
 

The primary point of aim can be mechanically adjusted to match the bullet’s point of impact at a desired target distance (e.g. 100 yards). Elevation of the rear sight can be adjusted by moving it up or down on a vertically cut dovetail and tenon arrangement on the front of the scope mount and securing it with a set screw. Windage can be adjusted via the front sight, buy moving it from side to side and securing it with a set screw. Proper zero is achieved when the front sight peak sits centered between, and flush with the rear sight reticle bars, and the point of impact is seen just atop the peak.

Ranger Point Sights Primary Aim Point

C) HOW TO SET A SECONDARY POINT OF AIM

The elevation notches in the front sight are referenced when a user desires a secondary or tertiary aiming point “on-the-fly” for targets at greater distances (e.g. 200 or 300 yards) than that for which the sights were zeroed.

In order to estimate secondary aiming points, the user must measure the distance between the front and rear sights (sight radius) as mounted on his firearm. Applying the simple formula below, he may then determine how much vertical impact shift is described by the height of the front sight from its peak to its elevation notches. The bottom flats of the elevation notches is a constant 0.10" below the peak.

Formula for 100yds: 360/sight radius (inches) = vertical impact shift (inches)

As an example, the sight radius (with RPP sights) on a Marlin 336 with a standard 20" barrel is about 18 inches, and 360/18 = 20. So we now know that holding over at the elevation notches will move our point of bullet impact up by 20 inches at 100yds (approximately 20 MOA). This 20 inches can be halved (for 50yds), doubled (for 200yds), tripled (for 300yds) and so on for various ranges.

If, by practice or by use of a ballistic calculator, the shooter familiarizes himself with the trajectory of his bullet, he may determine that from his “zero” at 100 yards, the bullet will drop approximately 60 inches (20 MOA) at 300 yards, establishing that a precise secondary aiming point may be achieved at 300 yards by once again holding the target just atop the peak of the front sight, but this time with the elevation notches aligned between the reticle bars of the rear sight.

Shooters of Hornady's .30-30 LeveRevolution cartridge will be delighted that the aforementioned example works quite well for them. But with a little time looking up ballistics, every shooter can benefit from the rapid holdover estimation that RPP's sights afford. Additionally, shooters will find that compensation for crosswind conditions or moving targets can be estimated, with practice, by holding the front sight peak closer to one or the other reticle bars (side to side). 

Ranger Point Sights Secondary Aim Point

Marlin Papoose Free Float KeyMod Handguard w/ Takedown Nut and Indexing Collar

* Remove front and rear factory sights from barrel. The rear sight drifts out. The front ramp unscrews after the sight blade is drifted out (on SS models).

* Slide factory barrel nut off toward the muzzle.

* Assemble RPP barrel nut, locking collar, and free float tube. Don't seat the locking collar or tube all the way against the barrel nut shoulder. Using your factory barrel nut spanner, hold the locking collar, and hand torque the tube tightly against it.

* Hand torque the entire assembly over the barrel flange, onto the receiver, as you would when assembling the rifle.

* Now unlock the collar, again using your spanner. Screw the collar and tube as far against the nut shoulder as they will go, then back the tube out just enough to index it as desired and lock the collar tightly against it.

* If the tube/collar become loose during use, a couple of drops of blue Loctite may be used to help secure them.

Reinstall the front sight if desired, and install a receiver mounted rear sight or optic. Install any KeyMod accessories you like. You're ready to shoot.